A Brooks LTD original shirtwaist dress in royal blue silk taffeta, as seen on StyleCrone. Photo by JJ Constantine.

According to FIT (hey, that’s my alma matter!) and the Wall Street Journal, the origins of the shirtwaist dress actually began with the “shirtwaist top” (aka what we now know as the “blouse,” originally fashioned from men’s shirts), which emerged in the 1890s as a uniform for the “New Woman, who demanded the same educational and professional opportunities as men. Rather than wearing fussy dresses bedecked with yards of the over-the-top trim beloved by Victorians, she preferred progressive, menswear-inspired clothes.” (via The WSJ, June 15, 2018)  Coinciding with the advent of mass manufacturing, and thus ready-to-wear fashion, the shirtwaist top, along with skirts and other separates, were easy to produce, as they did not require precise, custom fits – making them a hit with working and middle-class women (via LovetoKnow).

Shirtwaist dresses found in a 1944 catalog. Image via UploadStars

By the 1930s, the shirtwaist-top-and-skirt combo merged to become the shirtwaist dress, with designers such as Claire McCardell and Christian Dior making their own versions.  Technically speaking, a shirtwaist dress is defined as a dress which features a shirt top, combined with a skirt bottom.  Most often, and especially in the 1930s – 1950s, the top part buttoned up, though oftentimes the buttons extended all the way down the skirt for a look that was both decorative and functional (via The Vintage Dancer).  Typical shirtwaist dresses feature a notched, pointed collar, though experimentation with collar styles, waists, skirts and sleeves began early on.  Dior’s post-WWII “New Look” in particular promoted a highly feminized take, with a cinched waist and full skirt lined in crinoline, whereas designers such as Yves Saint Laurent and Halston later in the 1970s preferred more relaxed styling. (via Wikipedia)

A Dior “New Look” shirtwaist dress in lace. Image via Pinterest

These days there are many riffs on the design… my own included.  I love the balance between the feminine and masculine that this classic design offers.  And – always a fan of the unexpected – I especially love making a shirtwaist dress in a formal fabric such as a silk taffeta, which gives this traditional ‘day dress’ a glamorous evening look as well as elegant structure.  My version also tends to forgo the buttons, instead opting for a clean, open V front.  Modifying with a kimono sleeve or extra ruffle detailing also lends some intrigue.

A favorite look from my recent Brooks LTD couture collection – a red taffeta shirtwaist dress with kimono sleeves. Photo by Hardy Klahold Photography

Aside from its storied history, what makes this style a fan favorite time and again?  I believe it’s the fact that it’s such a flattering style on any body type.  It’s comfortable and freeing, yet can be cinched in the middle for an hourglass effect.  It’s functional and simple, yet the possible iterations are endless really.  It’s a thoroughly democratic style, and there’s something just fundamentally American about that.

My modified take on a shirtwaist dress, in flowing silk satin. As seen at Latin Fashion Week Colorado. Photo by Ricardo Mejia.

Custom Designs by Brooks LTD

Looking for your own take on the classic shirtwaist dress, or another style?  I live for designing unique couture gowns and other creative, bespoke ensembles.  If your next holiday party, wedding or other special occasion calls for standing out in a one-of-a-kind dress, please think of Brooks LTD.  Visit the Contact page of my website and we can schedule a time to sit down and discuss your needs.

The post Brooks LTD Fashion 101: The Shirtwaist Dress appeared first on Brooks Ltd.

She came to me after looking around for her perfect gown and not finding quite the look she dreamed of elsewhere. She wanted something special that radiated her personality and flattered her figure. The dress would be a short cocktail dress in a decorative tulle fabric with three-dimensional flowers. My vision of this dress could also be worn for a mother of the bride, gala event, cocktail party or any other black-tie social occasion.

When she decided to have me make a custom handmade dress, Jody and her fiancé came to visit to see how the process works. Since they had done their research, they had a vision of some design elements that would work on her figure. We draped several different fabrics over her street wear and she tried on several sample elements in my atelier in downtown Denver. Jody had also ordered two pairs of shoes that she loved, so we had a color palette to start with. It’s funny to see what sparks a dress design – shoes in this case!

After the first consultation, I had ideas of what would work for her wedding. They came back to look at the drawings and the fabrics I found that might work for the dress. Together we narrowed down the fabric choices to a grey beaded tulle or a pink beaded tulle with three-dimensional flowers. We chose the pink and I was off and running.

While I waited for the fabric to arrive, I prepared the first fitting of a muslin. We had two fittings of the muslin to get it perfect before I cut into the gorgeous special fabric. Placement of the flowers were very important, so there wasn’t any room for error and required special focus and attention to detail to get it right.

I cut apart the carefully executed muslin and used it as the final pattern. In fact, I saved this muslin as Jody and I talked about other dresses for more upcoming events this summer. Fabric and design will change the muslin fit, but we have a start for more options.

Below you will see various photos and views of Jody in her dress at her wedding day. The extended family included many children and young adults, you can see everything was thought out even down to the pink converse shoes. The flowers designed by Newberry Brothers were also exquisite. Everything was soft in pinks, with touches of red roses. Thank you to Joe and Joyce at Studio JK Photography for these great photos.

Congratulations to Jody and Don for their recent marriage! I am honored to have been your couturier for the festive event. You both looked radiant.

Looking for a unique, handmade wedding dress that’s unlike any other?

Sometimes your vision for the big day requires a wedding dress no one else has – one of a kind.  Reach out to me for a custom wedding dress that fits you and suits your personality perfectly.

The post A Unique Handmade Wedding Dress for a Second-Time Bride appeared first on Brooks Ltd.