A Brooks LTD original shirtwaist dress in royal blue silk taffeta, as seen on StyleCrone. Photo by JJ Constantine.

According to FIT (hey, that’s my alma matter!) and the Wall Street Journal, the origins of the shirtwaist dress actually began with the “shirtwaist top” (aka what we now know as the “blouse,” originally fashioned from men’s shirts), which emerged in the 1890s as a uniform for the “New Woman, who demanded the same educational and professional opportunities as men. Rather than wearing fussy dresses bedecked with yards of the over-the-top trim beloved by Victorians, she preferred progressive, menswear-inspired clothes.” (via The WSJ, June 15, 2018)  Coinciding with the advent of mass manufacturing, and thus ready-to-wear fashion, the shirtwaist top, along with skirts and other separates, were easy to produce, as they did not require precise, custom fits – making them a hit with working and middle-class women (via LovetoKnow).

Shirtwaist dresses found in a 1944 catalog. Image via UploadStars

By the 1930s, the shirtwaist-top-and-skirt combo merged to become the shirtwaist dress, with designers such as Claire McCardell and Christian Dior making their own versions.  Technically speaking, a shirtwaist dress is defined as a dress which features a shirt top, combined with a skirt bottom.  Most often, and especially in the 1930s – 1950s, the top part buttoned up, though oftentimes the buttons extended all the way down the skirt for a look that was both decorative and functional (via The Vintage Dancer).  Typical shirtwaist dresses feature a notched, pointed collar, though experimentation with collar styles, waists, skirts and sleeves began early on.  Dior’s post-WWII “New Look” in particular promoted a highly feminized take, with a cinched waist and full skirt lined in crinoline, whereas designers such as Yves Saint Laurent and Halston later in the 1970s preferred more relaxed styling. (via Wikipedia)

A Dior “New Look” shirtwaist dress in lace. Image via Pinterest

These days there are many riffs on the design… my own included.  I love the balance between the feminine and masculine that this classic design offers.  And – always a fan of the unexpected – I especially love making a shirtwaist dress in a formal fabric such as a silk taffeta, which gives this traditional ‘day dress’ a glamorous evening look as well as elegant structure.  My version also tends to forgo the buttons, instead opting for a clean, open V front.  Modifying with a kimono sleeve or extra ruffle detailing also lends some intrigue.

A favorite look from my recent Brooks LTD couture collection – a red taffeta shirtwaist dress with kimono sleeves. Photo by Hardy Klahold Photography

Aside from its storied history, what makes this style a fan favorite time and again?  I believe it’s the fact that it’s such a flattering style on any body type.  It’s comfortable and freeing, yet can be cinched in the middle for an hourglass effect.  It’s functional and simple, yet the possible iterations are endless really.  It’s a thoroughly democratic style, and there’s something just fundamentally American about that.

My modified take on a shirtwaist dress, in flowing silk satin. As seen at Latin Fashion Week Colorado. Photo by Ricardo Mejia.

Custom Designs by Brooks LTD

Looking for your own take on the classic shirtwaist dress, or another style?  I live for designing unique couture gowns and other creative, bespoke ensembles.  If your next holiday party, wedding or other special occasion calls for standing out in a one-of-a-kind dress, please think of Brooks LTD.  Visit the Contact page of my website and we can schedule a time to sit down and discuss your needs.

The post Brooks LTD Fashion 101: The Shirtwaist Dress appeared first on Brooks Ltd.

This collection was black and red, with pops of pink to go with the theme, “Cityscape to Countryside.” Brooks LTD clothing is all about your attitude and style, no matter the shape of your body or your age. My design aesthetic is diverse and multigenerational, not just for one group of women. And this collection was made to bring this idea to life.

The art of custom making clothes takes patience, perseverance, dedication and skill. The original consultation is where ideas are discussed to determine the silhouette and the fit. A muslin is made based on these discussions.

Meet Keri, a beautiful woman who loves fashion as much as I do. I had a vision of creating the perfect sassy version of a stretch ensemble that was somewhat revealing, but tasteful at the same time. To carry out the theme of the entire collection I added a beautiful lace skirt that made the otherwise casual garment appropriate for the runway, or even a special event in your future.

My vision began with a muslin, a dress form and an idea.

After those adjustments I was ready to perfect the garment with the right zipper, elastic trimming and the adjustable neckline finish. This design has so many possibilities, as the lace skirt is removable and can be worn different seasons with the right leggings and sweater for winter or camisole for summer. The one piece romper would be a great summer party ensemble with or without the skirt.

Once the adjustments were done, we met at a coffee shop to evaluate the design. Of course I couldn’t help myself and asked her to take a fun practice walk in the hallway. We love bathroom meetings!

This is just one piece of the collection I made for all of the models to wear for the fashion show. Each design was made to fit these women according to their body type and style, and I loved seeing the whole collection come together for the big event! Here’s one of my favorite pictures of all of us:

All Runway Photos:  Hardy Klahold Photography

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