A Brooks LTD original shirtwaist dress in royal blue silk taffeta, as seen on StyleCrone. Photo by JJ Constantine.

According to FIT (hey, that’s my alma matter!) and the Wall Street Journal, the origins of the shirtwaist dress actually began with the “shirtwaist top” (aka what we now know as the “blouse,” originally fashioned from men’s shirts), which emerged in the 1890s as a uniform for the “New Woman, who demanded the same educational and professional opportunities as men. Rather than wearing fussy dresses bedecked with yards of the over-the-top trim beloved by Victorians, she preferred progressive, menswear-inspired clothes.” (via The WSJ, June 15, 2018)  Coinciding with the advent of mass manufacturing, and thus ready-to-wear fashion, the shirtwaist top, along with skirts and other separates, were easy to produce, as they did not require precise, custom fits – making them a hit with working and middle-class women (via LovetoKnow).

Shirtwaist dresses found in a 1944 catalog. Image via UploadStars

By the 1930s, the shirtwaist-top-and-skirt combo merged to become the shirtwaist dress, with designers such as Claire McCardell and Christian Dior making their own versions.  Technically speaking, a shirtwaist dress is defined as a dress which features a shirt top, combined with a skirt bottom.  Most often, and especially in the 1930s – 1950s, the top part buttoned up, though oftentimes the buttons extended all the way down the skirt for a look that was both decorative and functional (via The Vintage Dancer).  Typical shirtwaist dresses feature a notched, pointed collar, though experimentation with collar styles, waists, skirts and sleeves began early on.  Dior’s post-WWII “New Look” in particular promoted a highly feminized take, with a cinched waist and full skirt lined in crinoline, whereas designers such as Yves Saint Laurent and Halston later in the 1970s preferred more relaxed styling. (via Wikipedia)

A Dior “New Look” shirtwaist dress in lace. Image via Pinterest

These days there are many riffs on the design… my own included.  I love the balance between the feminine and masculine that this classic design offers.  And – always a fan of the unexpected – I especially love making a shirtwaist dress in a formal fabric such as a silk taffeta, which gives this traditional ‘day dress’ a glamorous evening look as well as elegant structure.  My version also tends to forgo the buttons, instead opting for a clean, open V front.  Modifying with a kimono sleeve or extra ruffle detailing also lends some intrigue.

A favorite look from my recent Brooks LTD couture collection – a red taffeta shirtwaist dress with kimono sleeves. Photo by Hardy Klahold Photography

Aside from its storied history, what makes this style a fan favorite time and again?  I believe it’s the fact that it’s such a flattering style on any body type.  It’s comfortable and freeing, yet can be cinched in the middle for an hourglass effect.  It’s functional and simple, yet the possible iterations are endless really.  It’s a thoroughly democratic style, and there’s something just fundamentally American about that.

My modified take on a shirtwaist dress, in flowing silk satin. As seen at Latin Fashion Week Colorado. Photo by Ricardo Mejia.

Custom Designs by Brooks LTD

Looking for your own take on the classic shirtwaist dress, or another style?  I live for designing unique couture gowns and other creative, bespoke ensembles.  If your next holiday party, wedding or other special occasion calls for standing out in a one-of-a-kind dress, please think of Brooks LTD.  Visit the Contact page of my website and we can schedule a time to sit down and discuss your needs.

The post Brooks LTD Fashion 101: The Shirtwaist Dress appeared first on Brooks Ltd.

I recently attended the show alone, since a friend was not able to attend the preview that day. It was cold and rainy outside, which made it the perfect time to see such an exciting event indoors. I thought it was very interesting for me to see the show by myself, and I think I retained more of the details since I could really concentrate on the entire show.

I saw over 200 couture designs, as well as videos, sketches and dozens of great photographs. The curator, Florence Müller, did a beautiful job articulating many designs in her audio review.

The fashion house of Dior was first founded in 1947, after World War II, and the exhibit’s first display showed the “New Look” of their initial couture garment from this time period. The piece is very tailored, but with a softness and a feeling of femininity — hopeful that women were longing for that femininity after the war.

Although the design looks simple, the intricate shaping and details make it iconic and revolutionary for its time. Not everyone was happy about the turn of this kind of fashion after the devastating war, especially since it was a luxury collection available only to the wealthy during a time of rebuilding for the world.

Fast forward to today, and this look has been the inspiration for the future designers of the house. The exhibit featured an updated dress modeled after the original New Look from 1947, with new details adding a soft, yet strong sense of tailoring to create a feminine look. The pleated sleeves are creatively attached at the shoulder, the waist is softly defined and the contrasting pleated skirt is alluring and feminine. As you can see in the image below, there’s even a beautiful headpiece to go with the look, created by Stephen Jones of Dior — who I was fortunate enough to hear speak at this event before the show opened!

Yves St Laurent was Dior’s protege at the time of his death and became the head designer, and each time I walk through the exhibit (to date I have attended four times), a quote from him resonates with how I interpret what I design:

“Being a fashion designer is to make women attractive by taking into account their body, their gestures and their attitudes.”

Having this exhibit at my fingertips has enabled me to understand what I set out to do in my own small way over 40 years ago. I love to help women feel beautiful by expressing how they feel when they wear a beautiful design — made especially for them.

Below are a few photos from the exhibit (on the left) alongside of some of my own designs (on the right). We are all heavily influenced by our surroundings and other people. Seeing this exhibit helps me feel that I am on the right track. My blue gown has hand made 3D embellishments. My stylized bow (bottom right photo) is placed stragetically at the center back neck.   There are many details in the garments displayed that I have learned from and I trust my memory will somehow incorporate something from this exhibit in my future collections. I appreciate always learning something new. You can even check out some of my latest lifestyle fashion designs here! 

My favorite room from the exhibit was the flower garden. Dior and his predecessors loved flowers and gardening and it’s apparent in the clothing designs. Not only was I overwhelmed  with the elegant garments, but the mannequins even looked like they were floating on an invisible display. I can’t imagine the work it took to get each detail perfect when setting up this show. Needless to say I floated out of this room with a huge smile on my face.

Take a look at this video which features how the dresses were transported and set up for these magical displays:

The Dior exhibit is a learning experience that all ages and genders can relate to. After all, as the curator Florence Müller explains in the audio:

“Fashion is a form of art that deals with human beings. This is what makes it unique among the arts and makes it so challenging. The body is a shape that is restless, always moving, always changing, just like the imagination of the couturier.”

There have been moments in my 40+ year career when I’ve been told that my clothes are, “too much fashion and not enough fantasy.” I found that to be quite a challenge as I believe that art and fashion go hand in hand no matter if it’s fantasy, reality or a little of both. This exhibit confirms my belief.

I can’t wait to go back, time and time again, until the show ends after March 3rd. If you’re hoping to visit the exhibit, head on over to the Denver Art Museum’s website for more information.

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