Photo: Hardy Klahold

Custom Jean Jacket

When Ball Arena approached me to design a super custom piece for a super-secret client, I could hardly believe it. After all, the custom piece was for THE Shania Twain. As in, the country crossover star who transcended genres to dominate the pop music charts, too. As in, the Canadian singer-songwriter whose tunes were the soundtrack of the 90s and early 2000s. THAT Shania Twain.

Needless to say, I wanted to impress her much.

Creating a custom jean jacket especially for Shania Twain meant designing a personalized piece both inspired by her and featuring my signature Brooks LTD elements. I watched her interviews and pulled out specific words and phrases Shania used. It is my sincere hope these words resonate with her and that she enjoys the personalization as much as the jacket itself.

Design Details Matter

Using a Japanese technique called Sashiko stitching, I created hand-stitched details. Sashiko, a traditional way of mending and decorating textiles to further their life span to prevent them from going into the landfill, has captivated my spirit as it is relaxing and therapeutic to slow down and stitch where the thread takes me. Sashiko is also in my current collection, with rivers of thread stitched on easy to wear garments.

Shania’s custom jean jacket is made from recycled denim, including functional pockets on the frayed-edge stylized sleeves. Even the former belt loops were upcycled to hold sunglasses! The jacket includes a custom printed silk charmeuse lining and backside fringe created from tasteful sequins on cotton chainette thread for some Western flair. I wanted the front to be classic, chic and tailored, so that Shania could accessorize as needed. As you turn, she shows off a playful vibe from the color changing sequins.

Jacket Spotted on Instagram

I noticed she recently wore the jean jacket on an Instagram video with Billy Ray Cyrus announcing a reissue of one of her iconic albums. It’s thrilling to see Shania Twain as a walking piece of art in a Brooks LTD custom made jean jacket!

Proud of Pieces: Custom or Not

As a Colorado-based clothing designer, I love getting to design and create custom pieces for women across the globe. After 45+ years of making unique fashions, my designs are typically worn by women right here in the West. It is a joy whenever women happily wear Brooks LTD fashions — both custom pieces and from my ready-to-wear collections!

Brooks Luby wearing her own upcycled jacket showing off Shania Twain’s custom denim jacket

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Advanced Style’s Ari Seth Cohen outside of his book signing, flanked by myself and Judith from Style Crone, wearing her custom Brooks LTD headpiece

Ari’s blog showcases some incredibly fabulous New York City women, as well as some closer to (our) home – including my dear friend (and Brooks LTD model) Judith Boyd of blog Style Crone.  In addition to his blog, Ari also has written several books.  His latest, “Advanced Love,” is a collection of couples’ portraits “who prove that love is bound by neither the constraints of age or time.”  Judith had the honor of co-hosting Ari for his Denver book signing at local boutique Wild Flowers, along with shop proprietor Jonah Bradley.  Of course the occasion called for pulling out all the stops in creative dressing.  I was thrilled to find that Judith chose to wear her Brooks LTD oversized bow headpiece as a topper to her vintage purple dress.  This was a style that I custom designed with her in mind as my muse – hence it’s official name, “The Judith.”  I find that the more Judith and I work together, and the more our friendship evolves, her unique style consistently inspires me to discover new ways of expressing my craft.

Myself and two friends (both in Brooks LTD!) enjoying ourselves at Ari Seth Cohen’s book signing

Ari and Judith’s discussion that night left me with a newfound appreciation for the art of dressing.  It was a joyful reminder that fashion can have deeper meaning than just being the clothes on your back.  And oh how radiant Judith looked next to Ari in her vintage taffeta dress and Brooks LTD headpiece!  It’s opportunities like these that bring an extra dose of excitement to what I do.

Advanced Style’s Ari Seth Cohen signing his latest book, Advanced Love

Latin Fashion WeekStyle Crone’s Judith Boyd backstage at Latin Fashion Week Colorado modeling her custom Brooks LTD headpiece, The Judith, along with a Brooks LTD artfully decorated jacket and sweater knit dress.

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A Brooks LTD original shirtwaist dress in royal blue silk taffeta, as seen on StyleCrone. Photo by JJ Constantine.

According to FIT (hey, that’s my alma matter!) and the Wall Street Journal, the origins of the shirtwaist dress actually began with the “shirtwaist top” (aka what we now know as the “blouse,” originally fashioned from men’s shirts), which emerged in the 1890s as a uniform for the “New Woman, who demanded the same educational and professional opportunities as men. Rather than wearing fussy dresses bedecked with yards of the over-the-top trim beloved by Victorians, she preferred progressive, menswear-inspired clothes.” (via The WSJ, June 15, 2018)  Coinciding with the advent of mass manufacturing, and thus ready-to-wear fashion, the shirtwaist top, along with skirts and other separates, were easy to produce, as they did not require precise, custom fits – making them a hit with working and middle-class women (via LovetoKnow).

Shirtwaist dresses found in a 1944 catalog. Image via UploadStars

By the 1930s, the shirtwaist-top-and-skirt combo merged to become the shirtwaist dress, with designers such as Claire McCardell and Christian Dior making their own versions.  Technically speaking, a shirtwaist dress is defined as a dress which features a shirt top, combined with a skirt bottom.  Most often, and especially in the 1930s – 1950s, the top part buttoned up, though oftentimes the buttons extended all the way down the skirt for a look that was both decorative and functional (via The Vintage Dancer).  Typical shirtwaist dresses feature a notched, pointed collar, though experimentation with collar styles, waists, skirts and sleeves began early on.  Dior’s post-WWII “New Look” in particular promoted a highly feminized take, with a cinched waist and full skirt lined in crinoline, whereas designers such as Yves Saint Laurent and Halston later in the 1970s preferred more relaxed styling. (via Wikipedia)

A Dior “New Look” shirtwaist dress in lace. Image via Pinterest

These days there are many riffs on the design… my own included.  I love the balance between the feminine and masculine that this classic design offers.  And – always a fan of the unexpected – I especially love making a shirtwaist dress in a formal fabric such as a silk taffeta, which gives this traditional ‘day dress’ a glamorous evening look as well as elegant structure.  My version also tends to forgo the buttons, instead opting for a clean, open V front.  Modifying with a kimono sleeve or extra ruffle detailing also lends some intrigue.

A favorite look from my recent Brooks LTD couture collection – a red taffeta shirtwaist dress with kimono sleeves. Photo by Hardy Klahold Photography

Aside from its storied history, what makes this style a fan favorite time and again?  I believe it’s the fact that it’s such a flattering style on any body type.  It’s comfortable and freeing, yet can be cinched in the middle for an hourglass effect.  It’s functional and simple, yet the possible iterations are endless really.  It’s a thoroughly democratic style, and there’s something just fundamentally American about that.

My modified take on a shirtwaist dress, in flowing silk satin. As seen at Latin Fashion Week Colorado. Photo by Ricardo Mejia.

Custom Designs by Brooks LTD

Looking for your own take on the classic shirtwaist dress, or another style?  I live for designing unique couture gowns and other creative, bespoke ensembles.  If your next holiday party, wedding or other special occasion calls for standing out in a one-of-a-kind dress, please think of Brooks LTD.  Visit the Contact page of my website and we can schedule a time to sit down and discuss your needs.

The post Brooks LTD Fashion 101: The Shirtwaist Dress appeared first on Brooks Ltd.

But truthfully, creating a dress can be easily summed up in five simple steps! From consultation through final delivery day, I enjoy working with my clients and helping them see how fun the process can be.

Yes!! It can be this easy!

Consultation

I meet with a potential client and chat about her venue or event, her idea of what she may want, her colors and any other concerns she has for her custom dress. After the initial consultation I return to my drawing board and sketch out several designs with her body type in mind along with her parameters.

Sketches

Then, we meet a second time and study the design choices. At this time she may want to try on some of my gowns in my collection to see the fit and the drape of the item. We go over each sketch and possibly combine one detail of a sketch with another to create the final sketch.

First Fitting

After the sketch is chosen I go to the cutting table and prepare a custom pattern and muslin prototype based on the sketches and measurements of my client.

Making a prototype allows me to make corrections before I cut into the fashion fabric she wants. The client tries on the prototype and from that fitting I am prepared to cut into the fashion fabric.

Second Fitting

At this fitting my client and I review the actual dress made in the fashion fabric. I adjust any necessary alterations on the dress, realign any design lines and pin the hem. At this fitting it will be determined if one more fitting is necessary. Typically it isn’t necessary but I always leave time just in case.

Delivery Day

After the adjustments are corrected, the gown is finished and pressed and ready to be tried on for a final time. I always hope to get a photo at this time for my records. I also hope that after the day of the event I will get a professional photo to add to my collection of custom designs!

Looking for a Custom Dress?

Whether you’re looking for a truly unique wedding dress, an elegant mother of the bride dress, or a show-stopping gala or party dress, reach out to Brooks LTD for a design that suits you and fits perfectly! Contact me online or call 303-573-3801.

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